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About KaminKevCrew

  • Title
    Audio Fan
  • Birthday 1996-01-11


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 3770k
  • Motherboard
    Asus P8 Z77-V Deluxe
  • RAM
    16GB (2x8GB) Gskill 2133mhz RAM
  • GPU
  • Case
    HP Blackbird 002
  • Storage
    1TB Samsung 840 EVO, 3TB Seagate HDD, 1 TB Western Digital Black
  • PSU
    1050W Seasonic X series 80-plus gold
  • Display(s)
    Dell 2408WFP, and one more random Dell
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i
  • Keyboard
    Daskeyboard 4 w/PBT keycaps
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Sensei
  • Sound
    Asus Xonar Essence STX with Carver Speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1 Pro

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Soon to be California
  • Interests
    Computers, Cars, Tech in general, Audio
  • Biography
    I'm just some guy on the internet.
  • Occupation
    I wish

Recent Profile Visitors

2,017 profile views
  1. KDS Kylin ToolKit Review

    I know this isn't strictly Hobby Electronics, but it does have to do with Remote Control crafts, which does fall under the Hobby Electronics section, so I'm going to post this here. (hopefully the mods will understand - if this is the wrong place, feel free to move this thread) So, for some time now, I've been looking for some kind of toolkit that's focused on RC stuff. While hanging out on YouTube, I saw a video posted by Flite Test that included the KDS Kylin Precision ToolKit, and it seemed like a really cool kit to have for working on RC. As such, I sought it out and purchased one. Price: $99 USD (from where I got it on ebay) The main reason that I'm posting this is because I think it's a really nice toolkit overall (though there are certainly a couple of things I would change) but I haven't really seen any reviews on it. As you can see from the photos, everything has a nice anodized red color. They look like a much lighter red in person because there is a diamond pattern cut into the metal and the flats of the diamond is silver. The whole toolkit comes in a nice carrying case that's quite easy to use, and well organized. Now, the tools that are included in the kit look like they are actually really nice. The bottom end of the steel on all of the tools at the top of the kit have what appears to be a titanium/gold zinc coating over the steel, which is something that nicer tools have sometimes. To be clear, I have no way to verify what type of coating is on there, but it looks nice. (EDIT: In the photos that follow, you can see on the shaft of the extra Allen driver shafts, the tool metal is labeled as high speed steel, which to my knowledge, is a kind of tool steel.) As for what's included in the kit, the tools are as follows: Allen/Hex drivers: 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 4.0mm Allen/Hex T drivers: 4.0mm, 5.0mm, 5.0mm (I'm not sure why there are two 5mm of these, but that's what I have, so there you go.) Spare Allen/Hex driver shafts: 1.5mm, 2.0mm Phillips driver: PH 0 (That's what it looks like to me, comparing to another set of bits that I have.) I really am not a fan of this driver in particular. All of the other ones in this set seem to be sufficiently hardened, but this tool has gotten all bent out of shape after about 3 days of not terribly hard use. Flathead driver: 2.5 (again, comparing to my other bit set.) Nut drivers: 5.5mm, 7.0mm I didn't take any closeup photos of these two, as they're the same as the Allen drivers; they just have a different tip. T-Handle nut drivers: H4, H5, H5.5, H6, H7, H8 (I assume the number pertains to the size in mm that these will fit over. I'm not sure if the H is a standard size or anything.) Ball Joint Reamers: 4.7mm, 5.0mm Plastic Reamer: Good for various sizes As you can see, the plastic reamer has markings on one side of the tool that let you know how big the hole you're making is. On the whole, I really like this toolkit. The steel seems to be of a pretty high quality, and I haven't had any issues with the Allen drivers in this set; they seem to work better than most of the other ones that I have. The diamond pattern on the handles makes for a really grippy handle that isn't abrasive at all on your hands. The handles on all of the drivers are hollow, so these drivers are all extremely light to handle. The ends of the handles on the straight drivers have a part on the back that can spin independently of the rest of the driver, so you won't get blisters on your palms, even after extended use. I appreciate having replacements for the two smallest sizes of Allen driver, as I've definitely bent the smaller ones before. Now, for anyone that sees this, I would recommend getting the non-precision version of this kit. Mine was $99 USD, but there is a version of this kit that's exactly the same as far as I can tell, but the handles are gold instead of red (and the handles are solid instead of hollow). That kit is $65, which is a MUCH better value. If anyone has any questions about this toolkit, please feel free to leave a comment, or message me. I'll add stuff in if anyone has any questions. I hope this was helpful!
  2. Project psu: dedicated 12v or cheap ATX?

    That means you were using a linear regulator. Get a switching regulator, and you'll be able to easily and efficiently regulate a wide range of voltages down to 12V. It's a way better way to go. https://gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_695137.html?currency=USD&vip=760153&gclid=CjwKCAiAvMPRBRBIEiwABuO6qWDL6gCaLIu5WmfRdMLanRfZ0KTjcd5_P1o-bn57KIj1CSNzxUXf0hoCYLUQAvD_BwE Hell, grab two, three, four, or more of these and run them in parallel, then use whatever power source you want between ~16 and ~22 volts.
  3. Multicopter Megathread

    The Rooster is basically an improved Armadillo, but it has a titanium camera cage, and individually replaceable arms. It's going to be extremely nice, I can't wait to get my hands on one - they aren't out just yet though, unfortunately. What's going on with RF? I've been a BF user for some time, and I've always liked it quite a bit. Really the only sim I use is Liftoff. It's great
  4. Multicopter Megathread

    I think I'm going to use a HobbyWing stack on my next quad (likely to be an Armattan Rooster) just because they stack together without any soldering I agree with this sentiment. Also, airmode (or idle up - either way) is definitely better than neither. I personally have air mode on a 3pos switch. Furthest away from me is stability mode, second is horizon (mainly because I don't have any 2pos switches on that side) and the third is finally air mode. I think it's nice in case I really mess up.
  5. People near by interested in RC hobby

    Definitely this. Though, OP should also definitely check out RCGroups. It's the largest RC related forum around, and they cover just about everything.
  6. Improving fan efficiency by reducing the tip gap.

    They might be flimsy when you push on them, but the amount of force on them when they're spinning still won't likely be very high. If there was enough force to warp the blades, you would definitely be able to hear it. Fan blades that bend while they're spinning do not make a pleasant sound. I also bet that when you put force on the blades, they snap right back into place. That's because plastic has some pretty good memory in it. It's not like it's going to stretch from use anyway - you'd notice something like that as white lines on the plastic itself, which you never see.
  7. Improving fan efficiency by reducing the tip gap.

    It is indeed - It's really fun to look at full scale jet engines, because those things will have a tip gap so small you can barely stick a piece of paper through it, yet they're massive, massive things. Jets are really cool.
  8. Improving fan efficiency by reducing the tip gap.

    I absolutely agree here - as I posted above, many remote control aircraft have fan blades made of similar material, and they have absolutely no issues with spinning many times faster than PC case fans under much more demanding use cases.
  9. Improving fan efficiency by reducing the tip gap.

    I agree with the sentiment that careless mounting can cause issues. Also, not all cases are made completely square. I'm sure the steel on some cases could be warped enough that the fan shroud would warp, causing it to rub. As for the blades warping over time, I highly doubt that ever happens. PC case fans do not turn fast enough to have much centrifugal force on them. EDFs, as used in remote control jets have blades that are made of the same stuff in many cases, and those don't warp enough to rub on even tighter tolerances, despite the fact that they run at 20,000+ rpm easily, even when small debris can get sucked up and hit the blades. It's really not an issue here.
  10. Improving fan efficiency by reducing the tip gap.

    I think the main reason that manufacturers don't do this has to do with tolerances in their manufacturing processes. The fans will have to be much more accurately made for the smaller fin tolerance to work properly without rubbing, so that might have something to do with it.
  11. Multicopter Megathread

    I disagree. Futaba and Spektrum products are still very viable for the markets they serve. Yes, they're more expensive, but the quality of their radios are nothing to raise your nose at. They're quite nice. Also, they put a LOT of time into their software, and for it to be reasonably easy to use. That's the whole point of the iX12. The android functionality will make it a lot easier to update the radio, and to program it. Keep in mind that for these companies, FPV and drones are still an insanely small part of the market. Most of their business is people who fly planes. (Flite Test did a pretty good video with the Spektrum Product manager recently.) So really, they're still catering to the business that they're getting. Also, for many of these people that fly massive planes, having compact sensors, etc. really don't matter that much, as there's so much space. I do wish that Spektrum would have a JR style port in the back, rather than the silly serial port that requires a cable purchase... Keep in mind too, that the QX7s has angled switches on the top - which makes it very easy to pinch on. The regular X7 has them sticking straight up. As someone who has to drive somewhere I need to fly, I'm really not bothered by the size of my radio (The fact that I fly an X9e is testament to that.) and while I don't use a whole lot of switches currently, I definitely can't give up having sliders on the side of my radio for easy use of flaps (I fly planes about as often as I fly quads, and having the ability to precisely control flaps is something that I'm really not willing to give up.) I agree about the number of pinchers, etc. I fly pinching almost exclusively, and I'm definitely a part of the Xbox generation. If you want to try pinch, I would suggest tightening up the springs on your radio. I've found that, at least when starting out, it's a lot easier to find center which you may find helpful. Also, switching to a plane in your sim might be a little easier to start out, as they're somewhat less sensitive to inputs when compared to drones. Since we're still sending relatively low quality video through the goggles, bandwith hasn't really been an issue. Hell, old analog TVs ran on frequencies as low as 54MHZ, so really, you're not likely to have any issues there. Just make sure that you use a lower frequency for your radio than your video - if you lose video you can still initiate a return to home or something, but you won't know if you don't lose any video until you lose the radio link... EDIT: I also really want to try out a Jeti radio. They seem like they're extremely nice. Plus, you can actually physically rotate the gimbals, which will allow you to compensate for the angle of your hands. Oh, and their tray radios look really nice. I think I'll end up getting a Horus X12 first though, seeing as all of my gear is FrSky right now anyway.
  12. Where can I buy this

    electro pneumatic piston?
  13. Multicopter Megathread

    IMO, it would be a lot weirder to have different lengths on elevator and aileron or something. For me, throttle is different enough where different lengths isn't too bad. also, keep in mind that the difference we're talking about here isn't huge. I'm in bed on my laptop right now, but I'll see if I can take some comparison photos tomorrow so that people can actually see the difference. I've asked a couple of retailers about what the difference in angle actually is, but none of them could tell me. Maybe I'll send the photo to a couple of them so that they can use it to show people who might be considering the purchase. They're definitely pretty cool looking though. Also, keep in mind that the micro second timing isn't the be all and end all of resolution - Jeti radios have about 4000 steps of resolution (e.g. there are 4000 distinct, different points between 0% throttle and 100% throttle.) whereas I think most cheap radios have ~1000 steps, if not fewer. I'm reasonably certain that Taranis radios have 2048 steps, as do most (I believe) real computer radios.
  14. DIY with old gpu

    I mean, that's what PM's and PayPal are for, no?
  15. What do these wires do? (SOLVED)

    Since this is for Skiing, DO NOT use a lipo battery. If you puncture it in a fall (those ski poles and skis can be very sharp) it will catch on fire and/or explode. It's just not a good idea to use something like that for this, especially since they're soft pack batteries (there's basically a plastic bag and some heat shrink protecting the battery.) Really, if you want to do this, you should grab some 18650 batteries from a reputable manufacturer, and a charger. The charger will be cheaper, and they're Li-ion, rather than Lipo, so they're safer. Also, they're packed in a hard case (basically what you find surrounding AA batteries) so they'll be somewhat more durable. Oh, and the 18650 batteries have HUGE capacities for their size, so they're well worth it. Oh, and Lipo chargers are expensive if you want something that will work well/keep your batteries safe.