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Goa´uld Al´Kesh [scratch build]

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Posted · Original PosterOP

So that was a short week but it went forward.

The base plate of the bracket has been polished.


The acrylic glass rod I have now glued to the base plate.



Now I put the holes for the holder in the Alkesh


I then filled the cavity (between the attached trapezoid of the rads and the actual Alkesh bottom) with glass fiber spatula




Now I've polished all edges of the bracket



and here is an impression of the holder.
I still have to glue the overlay to the pipe. Still coming.


then I began to paint the Alkesh and prepare for it.
First only primer.


The waves on the top were filled two to three times with the polyester spatula



then back primer and a tin of spray filler.
Now everything looks different and feels much better



Now I sanded the whole wet with 400 and had to make only a few corrections.
The lid here is exactly the same.
Here you can see quite well the looped points of the first operation and how the areas in between all filled with polyester spatula.


The current status.
To no new waves or bumps purely to grind through too much grinding I went over only with paper 600 and have primed everything again.
I will definitely repeat the whole thing 2-4 times until I am satisfied.


Well, we'll see.
Short week and then there is plenty of time to keep working:cool:

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Posted · Original PosterOP
And on it goes, I completely forgot that the Modding Masters already on 2.-3.6.18 is.
I really wanted to be done so now we have a Deadline.
As I mentioned earlier, there was a lot to fill and to grind.
The IO panel should still be clad with ribs, after long thinks whether Plexi or Alu I have decided jokingly for a PVC design flooring.
The surface is like everything else slightly arched, so I was reluctant to bend ALU or Plexi for
I then cut this 16 times in 5mm strips, sanded some edges and glued with mounting glue in 7mm distance on the IO panel
oh so and the Alkesh would then slowly ready for the paint job
After curing, I then sanded the supernatants, a little more leveled and primed
As I mentioned in some forums, blue LEDs are not bright enough for the drive so I rebuilt the lens without the holes for LEDs on the back.
Here is just a white high density LED stripe behind the lens. The effect is really cool because you go blind: rofl:
but a slight blue tint, I would have been happy.
I have here now two lenses back with light and dark blue painted but except that the light intensity decreases does not bring much synonymous.
The blue effect comes only from the reflection of the plexiglass on the side, but the light itself remains white.
No plan then I'll leave it White.
so I had a roll of 4mm trim in chrome, they fit perfectly to the front of the Alkesh's.
Normally, two more lines would cross in the middle, but at this point the Bitspower Dragon is supposed to. As this is very similar to the symbols of Jaffa Tattoos.
Attached with superglue, keeps bomb
When I wanted to paint the cockpit, I noticed that the part of times something crooked is so I was allowed to build me a new cockpit.
Since the moldings are rounded down, I still had everything neatly trowel here
and so that I can still open the lid properly, the ends were still bevelled.
Now I've taken a day off the weekend and made various patterns for the Alkesh.
then plotted out
and glued on the Alkesh
I then primed all of them and painted them in a dark gold.
Just like other surfaces.
If anyone knows the Tel'Tak, guess what I intend to do
Well, I experimented with circles and ellipses for a while until I had the radii of the Alkesh.
These were then plotted out.
and then stuck to the Alkesh.
Yes, and that was not easy to get both sides top AND bottom identically. : Banana:
in parallel, the gold-painted decals were taped again so that only certain areas remain gold.
The lines are almost exactly the same, the foil is removed later so that only the lines are gold
partly also other decals were set which are only painted and then visually stand out from the surface.
So that the color does not run under the foil later on, I painted all the relevant spots a few more times in gold.
Well, just before then I primed everything again slightly. This should dry now that I can once again sand everything with 600 wet and can check off the final paint.
The Alkesh is now painted in silver and then the whole spaceship gets a Washing Effect (YouTube)
As I said before, a dark gray would be the right shade, but with gray I just do not have the metal effect, so it's now painted silver.
See you next time, now it's moving forward
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Posted · Original PosterOP
Here I am again.
This time there were many low blows but it goes ahead.
Where had I stopped?
Achso, the Alkesh I have now completely painted outside silver
and then remove all the tapes.
Although the film is good for masking because no color runs behind but the paint has decomposed the film that remained the adhesive on the spaceship.
In addition, you needed so much power to remove that I went to 30% everywhere the color with.
In the dark places you can see very well the glue residues here.
Okay, so only the removal of the residue has cost me smooth 3h and from the repair of the paint damage, we need not even talk.
All affected areas taped again or partly plotted first and repainted.
Now it was up to the interior and the MB Tray.
At first I painted all of this anthracite,
and then sprayed with two colors, silver and white, marble effect spray. I've put a few shades with gray and black shadow spray and provided everything with a gold glitter spray
the very end I still have sealed everything with semi-gloss varnish.
The cockpit I have set off laterally in gold
then finally the upper bracket glued to the acrylic tube.
The rings of the drive could now be glued to the scattering lenses.
Before that taped so that the diffusion lenses when washing effect not be dirty.
Now it went to the LEDs for the drive.
Without words, I have tried other LED positions but this is the best choice.
I then stuck the stripes in the drives with hot glue
and from the inside everything still wired clean.
on the door to the PSU I have drawn lines with a golden edding
before I stuck the pillars on it. Superglue is just perfect.
Cooooooool :love:
now something went on in the interior.
Fan PSU and a few Fittings mounted.
The HDMI connection by itself and the USB 3.0, I fixed with hot glue and then poured completely with epoxy glue.
I was able to solder the 230V extension of the SFX Revolution.
On sunday it finally got to the cable.
Probably the shortest extensions I was allowed to do.
First, the 24pin ATX cable to about 10cm.
then the PCIe cable to 20cm, because the original would be too short.
And the 8pin EPS cable I could 1: 1 sleeving.
Ahso and the pump cables are the same.
I do not even know where to start but I have so much spanking this weekend.
This is not even the half of the photos I had.
But without words.
Yeah the digital LEDs for the bomb I wanted to fix with velvet ring with hot glue from the inside but please let brain rain.
The hot glue has of course destroyed the whole shape
Well for the bomb, I've still cut a base plate, chamfered the edges and also immediately painted black.
The cockpit I have now provided with Goa'uld font, but without meaning, there would be no room for it.
I then opted only for optically matching hieroglyphics.
I have dissected a light cord, which I originally wanted to use but then discarded again, and found that lead the only one strand for the mass.
Just soldered some cables.
Because of the split tray, I need two cords, but have only bought one and did not want to install two extra separate.
This should then serve as edge interior lighting.
okay, I then soldered the second string to the controller and it works, yeah!
Via 5V
Okay for the 5V still a small distributor made in black
glued a 3pin connector to the PCB and soldered it to the battery poles.
Yes and I wanted to use these homemade combs for a long time xD.
Sorry that no sharp photo at is when you always double photographed everything on cell phone and camera does that happen.
I simply screwed the entire board to the tray from below with a plastic spacer.
Before, of course, the holes drilled in the tray.
I also find cool on what you do not come for ideas if you have a long time.
Okay and then I stuck the string to the tray, fixed it with adhesive and then reinforced it with epoxy glue from the outside.
Sorry at such late times I'm always really unable to shoot sharp photos, too dark too much energy drinks and so on
Slowly I'm running out of ideas.
Oh yes, there was something else: crystal control panel, but first I want to finish the coating so that all tapes can go away.
The pyramid still has to be polished, the bomb is still to be programmed and otherwise only minor things
THX a lot
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